Happy Rickey Month!

With DC's official Rickey month beginning today I thought I would begin my coverage by paying homage to the original Rickey and take a look back at a unique twist on the District's original cocktail. The Rickey originated in the 1880s, being first made at Shoomaker's bar on Pennsylvania Ave. after a request by Col. Joe Rickey, a lobbyist at the time who wanted a change from his daily bourbon.

A Rickey is about as simple as it gets to make. Derek Brown of The Passenger and Columbia Room is DC's resident scholar on the Rickey. He is the author of the Wikipedia entry on the cocktail, coining it as "an air conditioner in a glass," perfect for the hot and humid dog-day DC summers.

I was recently at the Passenger and had their standard bourbon Rickey. Served in a red wine glass, it consisted of Virginia Gentleman, a bourbon made in Virginia (yes, bourbons made outside of Kentucky can be called bourbons), giving the Rickey a more local touch. A half lime was squeezed and dropped into the glass and topped off with soda water. As opposed to gin Rickeys, a more popular version, the sweet and spicy caramel/oak flavor of the bourbon adds a more interesting depth to the Rickey. The soda water and lime gives it a very light texture, acting as a mild palate cleanser allowing for a clean AC-like finish. I enjoy a gin Rickey with the lime accentuating the spirit's botanical structure, but for that authentic feel and and more stimulating flavor, the bourbon Rickey is the way to go. (Pictured: The bourbon Rickey at The Passenger)

In honor of the 2010 Rickey month, Bourbon Steak created their own twist on the Rickey with their "Celerickey" made with Hendrick's gin, fresh lime juice, house-made ginger syrup, and celery juice.

The Celerickey had a distinct vegetal undercurrent with the cucumber notes of the Hendrick's combined with the grassy and sweet celery juice, giving it an almost Bloody Mary-esque quality. The lime juice provided some bright acidity with the ginger syrup adding a not-to-sweet touch. It was light, airy and refreshing. I really liked the dramatic celery garnish. I think I know what I'll drink the next time I order from their brunch menu. (Pictured: The "Celerickey" at Boubon Steak)

Skipped out by the Hop Skip, Old Raj Comes to the Rescue

With the 2011 RAMMY Awards already at a close, I had intended on trying all of the finalists for the Mixology/Beverage Program. However, I ran into a little snag with the "Hop Skip" cocktail at Estadio. Eager to get my drink on, I stopped by a little over a week ago at the Spanish-themed restaurant and met with head bartender Adam Bernbach. He informed me that the RAMMY organizers made a mistake in listing the nominations and that the Hop Skip was actually at his other bar Proof. To add to my disappointment he also said that he had run out of its key ingredient, namely salt-cured limes, which he uses for the vodka-based cocktail. Alas, the Hop Skip did not join my reviews of Is He Sharpe?, Alewife, Perennial Tea and Citros Gengibre (the winning cocktail) before the June 26 awards. Bernbach did say that the salt-cured limes are on their way and the cocktail should be available at Proof in July.

However, Bernbach made up for the misunderstanding by personally preparing for me his Old Raj & House-made Orange Thyme Tonic, which is part of Estadio's menu. Old Raj is a 110 proof gin from Scotland infused with saffron giving it a pale yellow color and a spicy structure joined by strong juniper and citrus flavors. To that Bernbach adds his own tonic which he prepares by boiling water and steeping orange, thyme and dried bay leaf for one hour. He then adds a less processed red quinine (ground bark from the Cinchona tree) giving the tonic an amber hue. (Pictured: Ground red quinine)

On the nose the The Old Raj G&T smells of juniper with the tonic's orange aroma boosting the gin's citrus tones. It has a healthy dose of the gin (exactly how I prefer my G&Ts). The gin's botanicals and spice are matched well by the equally forward flavors of the herbal-orange-flavored tonic which also adds a nice bitter bite followed by a sweet, glossy flow and tart finish. (Pictured: The Old Raj Gin & Tonic)

The Perennial Tea at Tabard Inn

The 2011 RAMMY Awards nominations for cocktails are out so I thought I would check out the finalists. In no particular order I have set out to give them all a try. My first stop was at Bourbon Steak where I reviewed "Is He Sharpe?". The DC cocktail tide then swept me to ChurchKey to put "Alewife" to the test. Next on the list was the "Perennial Tea" at Tabard Inn.

For those who are new to the District (or have been living under a rock), the Tabard Inn is quintessential DC. Since 1922 it has been serving guests and today it is both a 40-room boutique hotel and popular restaurant that offers one of the best DC experiences in the Dupont Circle neighborhood. As you walk in you revisit a forgotten time surrounded by dark wood, Victorian furniture and the nostalgia of classic Washington. Its secluded outdoor patio is a wonderful escape from the city buzz. During the winter it's a warm refuge from the cold with its crackling fireplaces and cozy corners.

Shortly after the Tabard Inn opened it became popular for tea parties by various women’s organizations, so the Perennial Tea is a cocktail that comes full circle. It consists of dandelion tea, Plymouth gin, French and Italian vermouths, Gran Classico Bitter, orange peel, a lemon wheel, and a sprig of rosemary. Amber-colored and served in a teacup it had a dainty appeal, definitely not the sexiest of cocktails but I liked the creativity.

The first thing I noticed was its intense aroma of forest with the piney rosemary and woody Gran Classico accompanied by the citrus, bringing me to memories of European Christmas markets. At first sip the intense Grand Classico Bitter asserted itself as the dominant flavor, tempered only slightly by the milder vermouths and lemon. Initially, I found the Perennial Tea to be a swath of complex flavors that had trouble fitting together. It was reminiscent of a Negroni with the addition of floral and citrus notes, but was off as the bitter Gran Classico accompanied by bitter dandelion tea finished with dry vermouth brought the flavors to a screeching halt on the palate.

As the ice melted and the cocktail "aged" the more nuanced flavors began to emerge. The sweet gin finally bobbed up from a bitter deep-sea dive accompanied by certain subtle, earthy notes of caramel. When the condensed flavors broke down it had a very warming appeal but still lacked a brightness to balance out the bitterness. Overall, it sought to challenge one's palate but may have gone too far in that the bitter components greatly overshadowed the other more delicate ingredients.

This cocktail seemed more appropriate as a seasonal drink rather than a “perennial” menu item - something to put on hold for when the Tabard Inn has its fireplaces aflame and St. Nick is making his list.

"Alewife" at ChurchKey

The 2011 RAMMY Awards nominations for cocktails are out so I thought I would check out the finalists for the Mixology/Beverage Program. In no particular order I have set out to give them all a try. My first stop was at Bourbon Steak where I reviewed "Is He Sharpe?". The DC cocktail tide has now swept me to ChurchKey to put "Alewife" to the test.

I arrived mid-afternoon on a Saturday hoping the bar wouldn't be too crowded so I could chat with a bartender a bit. When I stepped in the entire room was thick with a bustling crowd and then it dawned on me that I had shown up during the weekend of SAVOR, DC's annual craft beer festival. ChurchKey is also well known for its vast collection of brews from across the nation and from afar. It's an impressive offering. For a bright Saturday, ChurchKey is dark, very dark. Its floor space is narrow and quite long and the only natural light comes in through a couple of floor-to-ceiling windows that look out over 14th Street. It's therefore not best suited for daytime ambiance but if you are looking for some good drinking, sports-watching and chatting, the time of day doesn't matter. The decor has an industrial feel with a simplicity that focuses on the bar and its offerings.

Though the bar was really crowded with eager beer drinkers, ChurchKey is one of the few bars in town I have been to that had enough staff to handle the heavy load. Rather than playing the cat-and-mouse game of getting the bartender's attention, as soon as I stepped up to the bar that was a few customers deep, my order was taken and while I waited a few more staff came by to see if I had been helped.

When the Alewife arrived the first thing I noticed was its lemon-yellow color topped with a frothy white head, a result of their use of egg whites, giving it the visual appeal of a beer befitting an establishment with an immense beer collection. According to Daniel Swartz of REVAMP the Alewife consists of a "blend of Gin, Becherovka Liqueur, lemon juice, rich honey syrup, and egg white, topped with sparkling wine and a tincture of coriander, black pepper, and citrus peel." The anise-heavy character of the Becherovka Liqueur, an herbal bitters from the Czech Republic, hit me first both in aroma and flavor. Its licorice/menthol bite had a dominating herbal tone, which was parted by a fresh undercurrent of lemon juice and sparkling wine allowing for a bright finish. The egg white gave it a luxurious texture. The anise flavor really overwhelmed the drink, but gave it a nice, bitter angle. The gin itself was entirely lost (others I asked for a second opinion agreed) and in my view wasn't even necessary. Alewife was like a Pastis on steroids wearing some bling. The honey played a necessary role in subduing the Becherovka and tied it to the other ingredients but may have added a bit too much sweetness, leaving a sticky residue in my mouth. Overall Alewife was a bold cocktail that thought outside of the box. Its ingredients danced in great sync with the leading role of the Becherovka, for which I have to give ChurchKey some major props. It's not your typical crowd-pleasing spirit. It's definitely for people open to exploring new avenues of cocktail medleys. Alewife did what a lot of cocktails don't - left a great memory.

Bourbon Steak's "Is He Sharpe"

The 2011 RAMMY Awards nominations for cocktails are out so I thought I would check out the finalists for the Mixology/Beverage Program. In no particular order I have set out to give them all a try. My first stop was Bourbon Steak to try "Is He Sharpe?".

Immediately when I arrived I was greeted by bartender JP Caceres who was excited to make me their signature cocktail. I have to say it was one of the most interesting and unique preparations I had ever seen. I get really excited when savory ingredients are incorporated into cocktails so my eyes widened when he took about a dozen pink peppercorns, threw them in a glass, pulled out a torch (like the kind used on Crème brûlée) and began toasting the peppercorns. He said this is done to enhance their aroma, flavor and release essential oils. He then took a muddler and lightly crushed the peppercorns, added black tea, lime juice and house-made vanilla syrup. Then came the Cruzan 9 Rum. Head bartender Duane Sylvestre was nice enough to come by the bar and explained that he chose this particular rum as the nine spices used in its production (vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, mace, allspice, pepper, and juniper) play well with the other ingredients. JP slid over a straight tasting of the rum and it was extraordinarily smooth with the vanilla and ginger flow filling my taste buds combined with a playful, peppery zing. JP combined the ingredients with ice, gave it a good shake and strained it into a rocks glass with fresh ice and garnished it with a twist of lime.

"Is He Sharpe?" had an incredibly light and refreshing texture with a clean finish - a perfect summer drink. Its color was similar to an amber ice tea. I didn't pick up any of the freshly-toasted peppercorn in the aroma but definitely got a burst of vanilla and spice from the syrup and rum when I lifted it to my nose. As I took my first sip the peppercorns came through acting like a mild element of cinnamon - not as robust as I had expected, but it enhanced the vanilla and ginger flavors of the rum. The tea leveled the drink giving it a lightness, adding an earthy dynamic but may have watered it down a tad. The lime was a perfect use of citrus bringing a tropical touch and some acidic balance. Overall "Is he Sharpe?" was a well-rounded cocktail with soothing flavors that would brighten any mood. Beyond its preparation, it really didn't press the envelope with challenging flavors but still left you wanting more. It went down quick - maybe a bit too quick. In no time it was empty.

The Caipirinha at Mate

I recently joined some friends at Mate in Georgetown on the corner of K and 31st. It had been a few years since I had been inside with its ueber-sophisticated, loungey atmosphere and rows of primped fashionistas. Mate comes to you from the same people who run Chi Cha Lounge, Gua-Rapo, and Nena. It offers a sushi menu to satisfy your hunger. There happy hour runs Monday-Friday from 5-7pm and offers selected $6 cocktails, $7 martinis, $4 beers and $6 wines. Our server was terrific, coming back at the right time to check in but not annoyingly hovering or MIA. It's list of signature cocktails is a fun but cautious medley of Latin flavors catering more to the palate that doesn't want to go too far of the beaten track.

Having reviewed the Caipirinha at Chi-Cha Lounge and Perry's I thought I'd see how Mate would compare. As you may have seen from my Chi-Cha Lounge review, their Caipirinha was something to be desired. Mate had their act together. Unlike a lot of versions around town that play to less mature palates, the cachaça was the pillar of the drink with its distinct fruity and woody notes. It was balanced lovely by a perfect ratio of acidic lime juice and just the right amount of sugar giving it a pleasant smoothness to the mouth. It wasn't trying to be anything else. It started off bold and finished clean.